Every home should be equipped with a ducted kitchen range hood. I’ve always known that it’s a good idea to have an exhaust fan in the kitchen when cooking with gas stoves, but gas stoves aren’t the only offender. Any cooking appliance in a home, gas or electric, will introduce pollutants into the air that are bad for you.

What Is A Ducted Range Hood?

A ducted range hood is a one-trick pony; it’s a device dedicated to removing pollutants from the home while cooking. Re-circulating range hoods that blow air back into the home are nearly useless.

Also, a ducted range hood is not a combination microwave/hood fan that exhausts to the exterior.

While better than nothing, a combination microwave/hood fan that vents to the exterior is not as effective as a dedicated range hood. Currently, no microwave range hoods comply with ASHRAE Standard 62.2-2016 for airflow or noise. This doesn’t mean they can’t be used… but they’re not the best option.

Sound Matters

The louder a range hood, the less likely people are to use it. The quieter the better. Look for a fan with a sone rating of 3 or less while operating at 200 cubic feet per minute (CFM) or higher. This is quiet enough to not drown out a normal conversation.

Good Design

The job of a range hood is to remove pollutants from the air. The most effective range hoods are the ones that allow the least amount of pollutants to escape into the air. A well-designed range hood will have the following characteristics:

*Mounted above the range- While the downdraft fans can be effective, but they must be much more powerful to pull out hot cooking air that wants to go up. This means they’re also much louder, and all of that air being removed will increase heating and cooling costs for the home. Ideally, range hoods should be mounted above the range.

*Mounted against a wall- With one wall blocking pollutants from escaping into the room, a range hood will be more effective. If it’s surrounded by cabinets on both sides, that will be even better. The least effective range hoods are the type mounted above island ranges.

*Bigger is better- Range hoods should overhand the front stove burners to help contain pollutants. If you want your range hood to do the best job possible, use the rear burners on your stove, assuming it’s mounted against a wall.

Bowls beat flat- The most effective range hoods have the shape of an upside-down bowl. If you want to hold a bunch of water, would you prefer to use a bowl or a plate? Now turn it upside down and replace water with air. Same thing.

Don’t Go Crazy With The CFMs

When I say “bigger is better,” I’m referring to the footprint of the hood, not the size of the fan. With all things being equal, a higher CFM fan will outperform a lower CFM fan, but you don’t want to go overboard. If you use a fan that’s too large, you’ll have an energy penalty to pay. For every cubic foot of air that’s removed from a home, a cubic foot of outdoor air comes back in. This is no big deal when it’s nice outside, but when it’s hot or cold outside, the heating or cooling system in your home will have to work harder when the kitchen fan runs.

Even more importantly, however, is the potential safety issue that an oversized kitchen hood fan can create. When you have a ton of air getting sucked out of the home that has to be replaced, where does the replacement air come from? It should come in through a makeup air duct, which is typically the same thing as a combustion air duct, but not always.

When kitchen hood fans get especially large, the building code may require an oversized makeup air duct with a motorized fan to force makeup air into the home, and some of these systems may have duct heaters as well.

When there isn’t enough makeup air brought into the home, the kitchen fan will steal air from something else in the home. The obvious, feeble choice would be a natural-draft water heater vent, which simply relies on the buoyancy of hot exhaust gases to get the flue gas up and out of the home.

When the kitchen fan wins that battle, you have a serious safely issue in the home. The fix is to make sure the water heater and kitchen fan never have to compete for air. This is done by using an appropriately sized passive duct or powered makeup air in some cases.

How To Calculate Makeup Air

For people that use a less amended version of the national mechanical codes, you can head on over to section M1503.6 of the 2018 code to find this text:

M1503.6 Makeup air required. Where one or more gas, liquid or solid fuel-burning appliance that is neither direct-vent nor uses a mechanical draft venting system is located within a dwelling unit’s air barrier, each exhaust system capable of exhausting in excess of 400 cubic feet per minute (0.19 m3/s) shall be mechanically or passively provided with makeup air at a rate approximately equal to the exhaust air rate. Such makeup air systems shall be equipped with not fewer than one damper complying with Section M1503.6.2.


Every home should ideally be equipped with a properly installed, properly maintained, ducted range hood. If you don’t have one it’s not a defect, but it’s worth considering an upgrade if a kitchen remodel is going to take place. Also, remember to use the range hood when you’re cooking anything, and use the back burners when possible.

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